ITALY'S DEEP SOUTH

by

CHRISTINE FAGG

I have always been intrigued by that long, narrow stretch of land running down the south of Italy that looks exactly like a human leg and foot.  One of the most sparsely populated and poorest areas of Italy, this foot is comprised of three regions - Pulia, Basilicata and Calabria.  Pulia has a long east facing coastline forming the spur and heel of this foot while inland Basilicata resembles an instep.  Calabria in the south (not covered in this article) forms the foot and toe.  
   
    Throughout Pulia and Basilicata, I saw no holiday developments of any kind apart from a few hotels and the occasional campground.  Broad motorways cross the inland countryside from the Tyrrhenian Sea on Amalfi's west facing coast, right across to the Adriatic Sea on the east coast.   Part of this latter coastline is backed by the beautiful Gargano National Park which lies on the Gargano Promontory, a scenically beautiful area that is still an unspoilt paradise.  My advice is to go there now!  
      
    A few British companies have recently set up coach holidays in this area and, last May, I joined one of them entitled "Leisurely Southern Italy".  This began with a flight to Naples where an English speaking Italian Tour Guide met and accompanied us throughout our eight night tour.  From Naples we travelled across Basilicata into Pulia visiting items of interest and spending the last four nights in Vieste, an attractive old town on the coast of the Gargano Promontory.  Finally, we drove the 550 odd km back across Pulia and Basilicata to Sorrento on the west coast.  Here, we even managed to squeeze in a visit to Pompeii before flying home next morning.   
 

The town of Matera lies on two ravines,  Many residents once lived in "sassi" and caves half bored into the rocks

  A Matera town house cut into the rock face.  The sign advertises "Bed and Breakfast" in English.

    On arrival in Naples we stayed there overnight before setting off next morning in our comfortable coach.  I was sorry to leave the rugged Apennine Mountains behind us as we sped through Basilicata where the countryside is often flat and rather uninteresting.  However, the motorways are first class and the journeys were well organised with regular stops for refreshments.  By late morning we arrived at the first highlight of this trip  - a town called Matera - dating from the 8th century BC.  
 
    This town is set in two huge ravines filled with scores of jam-packed buildings which, over the centuries, have been cut into the rock walls .  One can walk along the twisting claustophic cobbled paths that wind between a network of tiered houses down to the rock floor .  The town is, however, famous for its amazing  "sassi" which are buildings of tufa stone (volcanic rock) roughly constructed and half bored into the rock walls.  During early times, hundreds of families lived in caves or these "sassi" in appalling conditions along with their pigs, sheep, dogs, goats and other animals.   It is difficult to believe that this terrible state of affairs (with its 50% infant mortality rate) continued throughout the centuries right up until the end of the 1950¹s.  The  government then built new residential areas and forced the inhabitants to move into them.
 
    Now, of course, everything has been cleaned up and the town has been declared a World Heritage Site!  Unfortunately, our guide did not materialise and, maddeningly, the tourist office was closed.  However, we were given a map with English directions pin-pointing the rock hewn churches (four of them underground), the caves and "sassi", a convent, monastery and specific houses some with terraces, balconies, cellars and tiny gardens.  If anybody reading this has visited Petra in Jordan or the Cappodocia in Turkey, they will understand exactly what I am trying to describe.
 
    The following day after an overnight stay in a small hotel in the little town of Castellana Grotte we continued across Basilicata and before long, crossed into Pulia.  Here, we enjoyed a visit to Alberobello, another World Heritage Site.   This town (and, indeed, the entire area) is renowned for its trulli which line many of the streets.  Trulli are small, picturesque rural houses (also built of tufa stone) some dating from the 15th century.  They have distinctive conical shaped roofs consisting of overlapping rows of stone tiles topped by a pinnacle, a cross, star, crescent or some other religious or zodiac sign.  

  "Trulli" in the town of Alberobello.  Some are rented to holiday-makers.

     Inside these houses, small rooms for sleeping and cooking usually lead off a large central living room.   A visit to The Master Trulli Museum near the Cathedral in Alberobello illustrates how families once lived in them.  Each room is furnished as it would have been when in use - a kitchen with a fireplace for cooking - a table for bread making and, on the stone floor, pitchers for water. Upstairs in the bedroom a cradle, a loom, washbasin and other basic items stand beside the bed.  Windows are just small square holes in the wall fitted with a wooden flap that could be opened or closed.   
 
    After these two stimulating experiences we drove on through Pulia,  eventually reaching the Adriatic coast at Manfredo where we headed north for the final drive up to Vieste.  This spectacular coastal road runs for 52 km or so, curling round strings of dazzling white sand bays backed by granite cliffs, some planted with groves of almond, olives and figs.   

   A sandy cove near the Adriatic coastal town of Vieste

 
    We eventually arrived at Vieste to stay at the modern 4 star Hotel Degli Aranci  which lies in this ancient town's residential area.  I cannot speak too highly of this hotel with its first-class facilities, high standards of service and delicious food.  In this area of Italy, the agricultural produce is always fresh and tasty because vegetables, fruit and herbs grow everywhere in profusion.   Vast quantities of fish are caught off this coast and lamb and goat are reared on the pastures and served, often in tomato based sauces along with home-made pasta.   Many red and white wines are produced in this region and also special rosé wines that blend perfectly blend with their delicious cuisine.  
 
    As this Hotel is situated a mere stone¹s throw from Vieste's sandy shores guests can enjoy swimming and sunbathing from the Hotel¹s private beach and stroll along the lively promenade bordered by cafes, shops and bars.  The picturesque old town with its hill-top castle is a short walk in the opposite direction.  It has an incredible medieval quarter jam-packed with tiny houses lining dark, claustrophobic cobbled alleys.   From its harbour one can take boat trips to the Tremiti Islands or along the picturesque coast to cruise into massive caves, past huge pinnacles of rock and beneath bold granite arches.   

The Adriatic from the Gargano Promontory

  A day trip by coach to explore the inland Gargano National Park with its 24,000 acre Umbra Forest was also included in this holiday.  It provided  sweeping views of hills, meadowlands, valleys and vast forests of beech, oak, maple, acers, old yews and black pines.  We stopped to stretch our legs beside a scenic lake where scores of small fish swarmed to the water¹s edge to eat crumbs from our hands!     

A lakeside stop in the Umbra Forest in the magnificent Gargano National Park
 
    At the enchanting little village of Monte Sant Angelo we enjoyed a slice of pizza and a glass of wine before exploring the village with its delightful jumble of houses crammed into nooks, crannies and serpentine alleyways.  As is the case in towns and villages all over Italy, you will find churches, religious monuments, possibly a monastery and sometimes a sanctuary.  In the Sanctuary of San Michele in this village which dates from AD490  there is a grotto said to have been visited by St Michael.  On the walls by the stone steps leading down into it, you can see grafitti carved there by 17th century pilgrims.

     Looking back, I must say that this holiday was a great success.  It was extremely well-planned and packed with items of tremendous interest, yet it was not over-taxing.  The hotels were excellent with first rate facilities, service and exceptionally delicious meals.  And how delightful to sit back, relax, enjoy and not have to have to worry about a single thing!