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Mediterranean cruising
Christine Fagg
 
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CRUISING THE MEDITERRANEAN  

A Potpourri of Life's Rich Tapestries

BY
CHRISTINE FAGG

Many cruise ships ply the oceans of the world, some providing luxury on a scale only the rich can afford.  Fortunately for us, there are other cruise ships, albeit slightly more modest, offering considerably lower fares as well as everything any normal person could possibly desire.


The Black Watch

    
     Just such a ship is Fred Olsen's Black Watch which I boarded in late July for a 14 night Mediterranean Cruise.  This ship is quite small by todayıs standards (28,613 tons and 205.47m in length) normally accommodating 807 guests and 350 crew.  Every member of staff from Captain to cabin crew treated passengers with the utmost courtesy and also, an exceptionally friendly atmosphere flourished throughout the entire ship.   
     
     The Ports of Call with their alluring shore visits are a vital part of any cruise and the imaginative programme on this one proved no exception.  We sped from
Dover across the Bay of Biscay to Lisbon and next day, enjoyed our first taste of Spain in Cadiz .  We then glided into the Mediterranean visiting Barcelona , Menorca and Corsica .  On our return journey we explored famous Gibraltar and, finally, La Coruna before returning to Dover .   
     
      First though, what is The Black Watch really like?  Does it compare well with those super 100,000 - plus ton liners now being turned out by the world's remaining shipyards?  I think it does, but obviously some items on the Black Watch are not so lavish.  The fresh flower arrangements are not quite so exotic and the service in the dining room, though impeccable, is not as formal as on QE2, for instance.  
     
     Believe me, though, one would be hard put to find anything to complain about.  In fact - the Black Watch has something most other cruise ships lack - that is a slightly homely touch!  Fred Olsen Cruise Lines is a family orientated firm and this happy, relaxed atmosphere is the result of a great deal of pre-planning by people who really care about their guests' welfare.   
       

       

Filling your time


     Sometimes, holidaymakers (particularly mature single people) worry how they will fill their time.  This is unneccesary because a newsletter (The Daily Times At Sea) arrives in your cabin each evening listing details of the next dayıs programme.     For example, the day might start with a game of bridge followed by a knowledgeable expert lecturing on the next port of call.  Sometimes there's a water colour art class or a handicraft lesson on creating your own bracelet or artificial flower.  
    
     Guests with energy to spare join in deck games that include quoits, shuffleboard, short tennis, carpet boules and darts while others practice their golf swing golf under special nets on deck.  Others prefer to exercise in the gymnasium, swim in one of two pools or "chill out" in the hot tubs!  Film lovers can watch recently released films in the
Marina Theatre while brainy people join in the daily quiz.  But to be honest, most people indulged in that favourite holiday pastime - lying on a sun bed basking in the Mediterranean sunshine - doing absolutely nothing!   
      
       Each day, the Newsletter pin-points special Highlights.  These may take the form of a classical piano recital or a performance of popular music played on deck.  Every night is a magical experience beginning with cocktails and dancing to the ship's orchestra, followed by a sumptuous 5 course dinner.  Afterwards thereıs a first class Revue Show in the Neptune Lounge consisting of performances by top-class entertainers and, frequently, performances by the glamorous Black Watch International Singers and Dancers.  Then, thereıs more music for dancing, the Casino is in full swing and the Star Night Club opens 'til the small hours.  
     
     If this heady lifestyle get's a bit too much, donıt worry, for soon the ship docks at
Lisbon for the first shore visit.  This capital city is approached sailing along the beautiful River Tagus where, in the 15th and 16th centuries, Portuguese sailors set off to explore the world.   Later, on Lisbonıs splendid City Coach Tour, we stopped at the Monument to the Discoveries dedicated to their memory before taking a stroll through the Alfama (Lisbon's oldest quarter).  The tour continues with a visit to the exquisite cloisters of the Hieronymus Monastery and the Maritime Museum containing details of early navigation.  
     
     At each port of call there will be usually be a choice of top-notch shore excursions escorted by English speaking guides.  On-the-spot advice is available when booking but you may prefer to explore on your own as I did in
Cadiz .  A red line painted along the roadsides guides visitors through the maze of claustrophobic narrow streets streets to the major places of interest.
      
               

From left to right: west facade of Santiago Cathedral; the Tower of Belem, Lisbon; the Sagrada Familia, Barcelona

In Barcelona we marvelled at Gaudi's architectural buildings notably the amazing Sagrada Familia Church .  He began this in 1884 but it's still not finished!  Then followed shore visits to the islands of Menorca and Corsica , both offering tours passing through old villages and beyond to admire glorious vistas of mountains, forests and seascapes.  
      
     
Gibraltar was great fun with its British policemen, pillar boxes and pubs but, without doubt, the highlight of this cruise for me was our shore visit to La Coruna and the unforgettable Santiago de Compostela.  This is one of Spain's magnificent old cities crowned by a stunning Cathedral dating from 1211.   It overflows with rich carvings and statuary and is said to contain the bones of St James.    
      
     No article on cruising would be complete without mention of those never-ending, mouthwatering meals.  At formal dinners in the Glentanar Restaurant, I shall long remember the Lobster Thermidor, the tender Veal served with Tiger Prawns, the Beef Wellington and other tasty dishes.   There were also special Oriental and Indian Food Nights and always, of course, a selection of irresistible desserts and cheeses.  From a traditional cooked breakfast right through to the
midnight buffet with its delectable menu of soup, sandwiches, salads, Quiches and desserts, feasting was a non-stop affair.     
         
     If you asked me what I enjoyed most on this cruise it was probably the little things.  Sipping a martini before dinner in the Observatory Lounge as the sun sank towards the horizon, making new friends or spotting dolphins frolicking in the sea.  But, most memorable of all, was falling asleep as the ship ploughed gently on through the waves, engendering those long serene nights of sweet dreams.   

FACT FILE

Fred Olsen Cruise Lines, Fred.Olsen House, White House Road, Ipswich, Suffolk IPI 5LL (01473-742424) or visit the website at: http://www.fredolsencruises.co.uk offers 13  Mediterranean cruises in 2006. One on Braemar, five on Black Watch, two on Black Prince, and five on the companyıs new ship Boudicca.  Cruise lengths range from 13 - 24 nights.

Prices range from £1,014 (14 nights on Black Prince including 40 %  Cruiseaway discount) to £2,574 (24 nights on Boudicca including 35% Cruiseaway discount).  A cruise similar to the one in this feature in July 2006 is priced from £1,388 (including a 35% Cruiseaway discount).  

All Mediterranean cruises start from Dover, Southampton or Liverpool.  

(Reproduced by kind permission of The Lady)
 
(6/1/06)

 

 

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