The lakeside Royal Plaza Hotel

   
Walk in the footsteps of Charlie Chaplin

There are a number of grandiose hotels in the town centre and I stayed in one of them, the Royal Plaza, a glittering 5 star hotel recently refurbished in a contemporary, yet elegant style.  Rising straight from Lake Geneva's shores, many of its147 bedrooms provide floor to ceiling windows offering a view you will never forget. Shimmering Lake Geneva spreads out and beyond to a breathtaking panorama of the French Alps on the opposite shore, forming a dramatic silhouette on the skyline.   
    

Paddle wheel lake steamers

Montreux has a brilliant public transport system and buses, trains, paddle wheel lake steamers and even a cog mountain railway can all be boarded near the Hotel.  Right on the doorstep, you can join the Lakeside Promenade, a magnificent paved pathway, bordered by flowers and palm, fig and magnolia trees which runs for 15 km from Vevey to Villeneuve.  
    
When I was there in early May, flower beds exploded with thousands of red and yellow tulips surrounded by deep purple pansies, Iceland poppies, grape hyacinths, azaleas and rhododendrons.  Along this spectacular "Flowered Pathway", as it is called,  life sized statues of animals and famous people such as Freddy Mercury of pop music fame have been imaginatively created in bronze or natural plant materials.  
    
From Montreux Rail Station one can board the Golden Pass Line train with  its luxurious carriages and panoramic windows.  It climbs slowly high above Lake Geneva rumbling through tunnels, across bridges, past moss covered boulders and huge forests of birch, ash and fir trees.  Soon the landscape changes to sweeping meadowlands where pristine cows, their bells tinkling in the crystal clear air, munch the lush grass.  Finally, the steel blue sky is filled with an arc of craggy mountains topped by glittering snow covered peaks.  
    
We alighted at Gstaad that popular winter ski resort, much favoured by summer visitors as well, who can paraglide, play golf, ride mountain bikes, go river rafting or take the guided walk to Glacier 3000.  Others, less energetic, stroll along gently undulating paths, stopping at viewpoints to marvel at the grandiose scenery or stop at one of Gstaad's numerous cafes for refreshments.     

   
The Chateau de Chillon
    

Everybody who stays in Montreux visits the romantic Castle of Chillon with its towers, turrets and courtyards. Dating roughly from the 13th century it perches on a rocky islet and was originally built to guard the narrow passage between lake and mountains.   Inside, there are grandiose halls, armories and royal chambers housing collections of furniture, pewter ware and antique weaponry. A highlight is the prison where, in 1532, Francois Bonivard remained chained to a pillar for four years merely because he favoured the independence of Geneva.  Lord Byron, when visiting in 1816,  was so moved by his story that he composed a poem to Bonivard's memory, "The Prisoner of Chillon". Lord Byron also carved his name on a pillar which you can see to this day.
    

            
Sloping, vine-covered hills

Another delightful excursion from Montreux is to take the bus that runs along the lakeside to Vevey.  Here, holidaymakers can hop on the Panoramic Wine Train which wends its way through sloping, vine-covered hills.   
Spectacular walking trails wind through tiny villages where visitors are warmly welcomed into cosy caveaux to learn the secrets of wine making.  By pure luck, my visit on May 1st coincided with The Wine Bottling Festival in the village of Espesses where growers lined the roadsides displaying their favourite vintages.  Visitors, supplied with their own wine glass are offered liberal "tastings" as they pass by.  This is fine providing, of course, that you don't have to drive back to your hotel!  We did not.
    
There is so much to do in this delightful corner of Switzerland.   Magical lake cruises or a ride on the heart-stopping Rochers-de-Naye cog railway, an amazing feat of engineering that carries passengers up this mountain to a height of 6.700 ft to marvel at one of Switzerland¹s prime Alpine viewpoints.
  


Vevey's squeaky-clean Saturday morning market

Then there is the sophisticated Casino Barrière and The Museum of Montreux displaying the town's history. At Vevey's Saturday morning market, stalls groan with locally made cheese and yoghurt, olives, sausages and hams, as well as hand knitted sweaters, scarves, flowers and plants.  Everywhere, pristine vegetables are piled sky high, squeaky-clean and shining - just like everything else in Switzerland.  
    
There is no shortage of high quality restaurants serving gastronomic delights in Montreux.  Top of the list is surely the Royal Plaza Hotel's La Croisette Restaurant, where memorable dishes, lovingly prepared by Chef Frank Berthier, include Tiger Prawn Tails served on Black Risotto and Stuffed Quails with Mushrooms.  Between, you can enjoy the local cheese fondues, or a plate of Switzerland¹s popular dried meats followed by a slice of plum tart.  
     
Another must-see attraction is, of course, that world famous 16 day annual jazz festival held every July, where nightly jazz concerts are held at various venues and every day bands perform free of charge on the promenade.   
    
From romantic castles and majestic mountains to tranquil lakes and tempting vineyards, the magic of Montreux leaves a lasting impression.  

FURTHER INFORMATION

(This article has been reprinted by kind permission of The Lady)

(15/8/05)