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SNOWDONIA - SPECTACULAR SCENERY -
LEGENDARY LOCATIONS
BY CHRISTINE FAGG
Glorious Snowdonia National Park rises over
3000feet above sea-level.
Walking trails offer holidaymakers the chance to get close to nature.
What is it about the tiny Principality of Wales that lures me back again
and again? Is it those 400 ancient castles still standing on
the rugged hilltops or the ghosts of the Roman Army that once marched
from Chester to Caernarfon?
Perhaps, it is just the sheer beauty of
the countryside with its grandiose coastline, vast brooding forests and
Snowdonıs range of lofty pinnacles darkening the skyline. Whatever
the reason, the fact is, I always return and am never disappointed.
On this occasion, I headed for North Wales and stayed in the quirky
little town of Conwy on the western shores of Conwy Bay. At
the prestigious Castle Hotel on High Street, once patronised by William
Wordsworth and Samuel Johnson, I enjoyed splendid meals and slept
peacefully under the watchful gaze of mighty Conwy Castle. Each
evening, as darkness fell, I admired the Hotelıs antique furniture
glowing in the soft lights diffused by exquisite Tiffany lamp shades.
By day, I drove through the surrounding countryside visiting some
of North Walesı wide range of attractions.
 Cosy
traditional pubs like The Groes Inn, near Conwy provide wonderful food
and all mod cons.
It rained, of course, and chill winds whistled round street corners, but
what can one expect in late October? From time to time, a ray of
brilliant sunshine would break through the clouds, turning rivers into
dazzling threads of silver and green meadows into sheets of emerald.
The great thing about travelling by car is that one is
always warm and dry and guaranteed panoramic views round virtually every
bend in the road.
I began my stay with a walk round Conwy which lies enclosed within
a ring of 13th century walls, punctuated by five gateways and twelve
towers. Visitors can walk along the walls and climb the towers and
battlements in Conwy Castle, now a World Heritage Site. In
this delightful little town, higgle-de-piggledy narrow streets are
bordered by a jumble of white houses and cottages that rise straight
from the pavements. The Parish Church, St Mary's, dates from 1283
and contains ancient carvings of stone heads, tombstones with heraldic
emblems and a floor slab with the riveting inscription, "Nicholas
Hookes, 41st child and himself father of 27 children" ! Nearby,
and well worth visiting is "Plas Mawr" (The Great Hall), one
of the finest Elizabethan houses still surviving in Britain.
Built for a rich merchant in 1576 it is charmingly decorated
with stunning ornamental plaster work, some of it beautifully repainted
in original colours.
Bodnant Garden with its striking views of Snowden's mountain range
provides
memorable vistas of flowers, shrubs, trees and romantic statuary like
this Sphynx
Everybody staying in North Wales heads for The National Trustıs
fabulous Bodnant Garden, a short drive inland from Conwy. This
Garden lies above the River Conwy on ground sloping west with striking
views of Snowdonıs Mountain Range. It consists of two parts, one
lying around the house with flower and shrub-filled terraced beds and
the other which is called "The Dell" is accessed down a grassy
slope. Here, there's a Pinetum, a Wild Garden, a Yucca Garden, fir
trees, a waterfall, huge shrubberies and the meandering River Hiraethlyn,
a tributary of the River Conwy .
Winding paths lead from one stunning feature to another. Formal
rose beds and herbaceous borders vie for attention with an ornamental
lake where the colours of water lilies range from red, through pink and
white to pale yellow. Throughout springtime there are mind-blowing
varieties of rhododendrons, magnolias and camellias in bloom and, in the
last week of May until mid-June, the stunning Laburnum Arch with its
thousands of golden racemes. "When is the best time to visit"?
I asked Martin Puddle the Head Gardener. "Whenever you come
to Bodnant Garden," he assured me "there will always be
something spectacular to see".
I drove over to Cardigan Bay to visit Portmeirion, a unique
Italian-style village which lies on a sheltered bay, backed by steep
cliffs and surrounded by sandy bays. It was the dream of Welsh
architect Clough Williams Ellis who considered it to be the ideal
setting for a perfect village. He designed and built it
between 1926 and 1976, his aim being to prove that the development of a
naturally beautiful site need not lead to its being spoiled. 
Portmeirion is a dream village overlooking Cardigan Bay.
It was created by architect Clough Williams between 1926 and 1976.
The pathways that run through Portmeirion Village are bordered by pastel
coloured ornate houses and cottages which are rented out as holiday
homes. Many have been designed in neo-classical Georgian style,
while others are decorated with balconies, twirly towers and turrets.
Triumphal arches span main pathways and, here and there, stone
statues gaze silently as you pass by. Other enchantments include a
grotto, a rotunda, gazebo, a lighthouse, fountain, band stand and a
magnificent Tree Walk. There are also seven shops and two hotels -
Castell Deudraeth where I enjoyed a superb lunch and The Hotel
Portmeirion which lies on the shore. The thing is, Portmeirion is
so different from anywhere else on earth, you just HAVE to go there and
see it for yourself.
Unmissable, also, is a unique house called Plas Newydd which lies just
outside the town of Llangollen. From 1780 to 1829, two single
ladies lived there filling their days writing, reading, sketching and
embroidering and also "gothicising" the main rooms. This
was achieved by covering the walls with exquisitely carved oak panels
from church interiors, chests, bedposts and canopies. Many
depict saints, evangelists or stories from the Bible while others reveal
Greek, Eastern and Hindu mythology.
A major problem when contemplating a visit anywhere is, of course,
how to find the right place to stay. Once, acceptable
accommodation in Wales was extremely difficult to find but all that has
changed, thanks to the dedicated efforts of Emyr Griffith, an ex-
Director of Wales Tourist Board. In 1985, he was so concerned by
this shortage that he decided to devote his working life to assembling a
selection of accommodation, each one providing supremely high standards.
The result is Welsh Rarebits, a collection of 46 reasonably priced
hotels, historic inns and other exceptionally attractive places to stay
throughout Wales, usually small and privately owned. They all
offer wonderful food, exceptional comfort, impeccable service and, above
all, those elusive qualities that are so difficult to define, atmosphere
and ambience.
I wish space allowed me to describe in detail other attractions I packed
into my visit. They included Ewe-phoria Agri Theatre and Sheepdog
Centre at Llangwm near Corwen. Here, I learned about sheep and
watched The World Champion Sheepdog rounding up his flock. Then there
was my trip on the Welsh Highland Railway which runs through glorious
Snowdonia National Park to Caernarfon. It is just one of
nine Great Little Trains of Wales covering 120 miles of narrow tracks
running through wild countryside. I also found time to visit
Anglesey and see the National Trust's "Plas Newydd", the
grandiose home of the Marquis of Anglesey with its sweeping views of the
Menai Strait. Inside, among many items of exceptional interest is
a Military Museum and an exceptionally impressive collection of Rex
Whistlerıs paintings.
Plas Newydd, The National
Trust's stately home on Anglesey
lies on the Menai Strait and is open to the public
I will conclude this article by describing a highlight of my stay - the
drive along the Ceiriog Valley. This magical 8 mile journey
begins at Chirk, north of Oswestry, and runs west along a narrow
twisting road shaded by spreading oak, chestnut and fir trees bordering
the River Ceiriog. There are unforgettable views across lush,
sheep-filled meadows and woodlands enfolded by gentle green hills.
From time to time the road passes over hump-backed bridges
spanning the dark,twisting river and through old stone villages that
have surely been there forever. Snug cottages huddle round tiny
churches and stern chapels offer a glimpse of the religious tradition
that once held Wales in its grasp.
At the end of this valley, tucked in the foothills of the Berwyn Hills
in the tiny hamlet of Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog , there's a dream of a
pub - The West Arms - dating from 1670 where drovers once converged
after walking over mountain tracks. It is now called The
West Arms Hotel and has recently been awarded "AA Hotel of the Year
for Wales". It has stone flagged floors, low beamed ceilings,
period furniture and blazing log fires. It also boasts a winning
wine list and a superb menu featuring delectable Welsh specialities.
Superb dishes include "Fillet of Welsh Organic Lamb Roasted
in Herbs with a Pear and Watercress Stuffing" and "Local
Ceiriog Trout Fillets on a bed of Leeks, laced in a Lemon Fraiche
Sauce". As you would expect, they are both accompanied by
lashings of succulent local vegetables.
I am not alone in my passion for this hidden valley for I learned on my
recent visit that the illustrious Welsh Prime Minister, David Lloyd
George thought so too. "The
Ceiriog Valley", he declared, "is a piece of heaven on
earth".
FURTHER INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Driving by car to Wales from anywhere in England is quick and
easy along excellent, well signposted motorway links.
Virgin Trains runs five direct daily weekday services from
London-Euston to North Wales coastal towns including a new daily service
to Llandudno Junction with connections to Betws-y-Coed and other inland
resorts. Fares from Euston to Llandudno Junction start at £28
return for a 14 day book ahead standard class ticket.
Tel: 08457 222 333 or visit www.virgin.com/trains
National Express coaches. It is possible to travel to North
Wales from one of many National Express Coach Services pick up points
throughout the country. Tel:08705 808080 or visit
www.gobycoach.com
Welsh Rarebits - (Their brochure gives details of the hotels
mentioned in this article)
Princes Square, Montgomery, Wales SY15 6PZ
Tel: 01686 668030 Fax: 01686 668029
Website:www.welsh.rarebits.co.uk email<info@rarebits.co.uk>
A double room including full Welsh breakfast per night costs from £80
p.p. Short Breaks from £125 p.p.
For details of all the attractions mentioned in this article and a
free brochure with map contact: North Wales Tourism, 77 Colwyn
Bay, Wales LL29 7LN Tel: 01492 531731 Website:www.visitsnowdonia.info.
(17/1/05)
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